Peptides or retinol? Wrong question.

Every week someone asks whether peptides are "better" than retinol. They are not competing. Retinoids change how fast skin cells turn over. Peptides send messages to the cells that are already there. One is a renovation crew, the other is a memo.

What retinol does

Retinol converts in the skin to retinoic acid, which speeds cell turnover and, over months, supports thicker, more organised skin. It is the most evidenced cosmetic active for the look of lines. It is also the one most likely to leave you red, flaky and hiding from the sun for the first six weeks.

What peptides do

Signal peptides such as Matrixyl 3000 nudge skin toward making more of its own structural proteins. Neuro-peptides such as Argireline soften the look of expression lines. Carrier peptides such as GHK-Cu move minerals to where they are useful. None of them irritate, none of them make you photosensitive, and none of them work as fast as a strong retinoid.

How to run both

• Verglas in the morning, retinol at night. Or alternate nights if your skin is sensitive.
• Keep strong exfoliating acids away from copper peptides in the same routine.
• Snowline on top of everything. A retinol routine without barrier support is how people end up believing skincare "does not work for them".
• SPF every morning. Nothing above matters otherwise.