Four jobs, four families
1. Signal peptides
These are the messengers. Fragments such as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 look to the skin like the debris that appears when collagen breaks down, which prompts the skin to make more. Matrixyl 3000 and SYN-COLL are the best-known examples. Slow, steady, and the best-evidenced family. Used in Verglas, Snowline and Thaw.
2. Neuro-peptides
Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) interferes with the tiny muscle signals under expression lines, so the lines look softer. Nothing is paralysed and nothing is injected. The effect is modest and cosmetic, which is exactly what we claim. Used in Verglas and Halflight.
3. Carrier peptides
GHK-Cu, the famous blue copper peptide, carries copper to where enzymes need it. The literature on it is long and enthusiastic; the supplier data is thin. We use it at 1% in Verglas and we are honest about which is which.
4. Barrier and specialist peptides
Eyeseryl (puffiness) and Haloxyl (dark circles) were each designed and tested for a single job around the eye. Halflight is built around both.
What peptides are not
- Not a replacement for sunscreen. Nothing is.
- Not "Botox in a bottle". Anyone who tells you that is selling something and breaking advertising rules in most countries.
- Not instant. Signal peptides work on a cell-turnover timescale. Expect four to eight weeks.
- Not all equal. A "10-peptide complex" at 0.01% each is a label, not a formula. Ask for percentages.
What to look for on any peptide product
- The percentage of each peptide, or at least the supplier trade name (Matrixyl, Argireline, Eyeseryl) which implies the maker's tested level.
- A pH between 5 and 7 for most peptides; strong acids can degrade them.
- Opaque or airless packaging. Peptides and copper do not enjoy light and air.
- A published study with a panel size and a duration, not a percentage of people who "agreed".